Courtesy of Red Bull Media Service Team
Slovenian adds lead title to bouldering as Megos ascends to men’s lead silver.
Slovenian sensation Janja Garnbret has become the first woman to complete the bouldering and lead double at the IFSC Climbing World Championships as German Alexander Megos and Briton Shauna Coxsey also took home medals. Here is all you need to know:
– The 2019 championships in Hachioji are doubling as the first official Olympic qualifying event in the history of sport climbing as over 250 athletes from 39 different countries compete in the different categories of bouldering, combined, lead and speed.
– Garnbret came into the Japan event in a league of her own, thanks to an amazing unbeaten run which has included sweeping the IFSC World Cup circuit in 2019.
– She managed to get the better of a classy bouldering field to retain her title from Innsbruck with Japan’s Miho Nonaka in fifth, despite carrying two shoulder injuries.
– Coxsey claimed Britain’s first ever female climbing medal with bronze as home hero Akiyo Noguchi edged her out for a popular silver behind dominant Garnbret.
– Thursday saw the lead competition get to the business end of that category with Garnbret against the likes of reigning champion Jessica Pilz from Austria, South Korea’s Kim Ja-in and her bouldering rival Noguchi.
– Garnbret looked on as Pilz could only finish sixth, Japan’s Ai Mori cheered the home crowd with a bronze medal and compatriot Mia Krampl excelled for silver.
– Twenty-year-old Garnbret, who then scaled the wall with astonishing ease for her second gold, revealed: “This is surreal and amazing. I was a little bit nervous before as I did not know what to expect. I knew the route was bumpy and you just had to climb. I did all I could, so I was happy with my performance and I win again. Twice in this championships is amazing.”
– In the men’s lead, bouldering gold medallist Tomoa Narasaki of Japan dug in for fourth place with Austrian legend Jakob Schubert securing his seventh world championship medal after an impressive bronze.
– It was left down to Megos and two-time lead world champion Adam Ondra for gold, the German’s superiority in the previous rounds finally overcome by the Czech’s experience when it really mattered.
– Megos, 26, can now add a silver medal to the bronze lead medal he earned in 2018 with the focus switching now to the speed and combined categories ahead of sport climbing’s Olympic debut at Tokyo 2020.