DiGiulian makes free climb history

Courtesy of Red Bull Media Service

Sasha DiGiulian climbs Mora Mora (5.14b, 8c) on the remote massif domes of Tsaranoro in Madagascaron July 25, 2017. –
Photographer Credit:
Francois Leabeau/Red Bull Content Pool

 

American becomes first woman in history to free climb notorious Mora Mora.

Sasha DiGiulian has become the first woman to free climb the 700-metre Mora Mora and only the second person in history to do so.

The professional climber, along with Edu Marin, ascended the peak last month after three days of climbing in the remote wilderness of Madagascar.

Using handholds of crystals smaller than shelled peanuts at times to pull themselves up, it was a treacherous task to tackle.

Sasha DiGiulian climbs Mora Mora (5.14b, 8c) on the remote massif domes of Tsaranoro in Madagascar on July 24, 2017. –
Photographer Credit:
Francois Leabeau/Red Bull Content Pool

Mora Mora was first tackled in 1999 by the pairing of Francisco Blanco and Toti Vales but the duo were unable to free climb it, and it took until 2010 for Adam Ondra, of the Czech Republic, to become the first person to free climb the route.

DiGiulian’s ascent with Marin was not without its complications, with them spending 26 days in the area working out the individual pitches of the route and achieving the feat after three days of upward work, all done hauling their gear, food and water with them.

Sasha DiGiulian and Edu Marin organize their plan on the port-a-ledge on Mora Mora (5.14b, 8c) on the remote massif domes of Tsaranoro in Madagascar July 25, 2017. –
Photographer Credit:
Francois Leabeau/Red Bull Content Pool

DiGiulian described the climb thus: “It’s like a dance. Every foot placement needs to be laser precise. Light breaths and slow movements, body positioning and trusting negligible little crystals smaller than shelled peanuts.

“This route is very technical. You need to have patience in unlocking sequences and reading the rock, learning the style and trusting yourself.”

Sasha DiGiulian climbs Mora Mora (5.14b, 8c) on the remote massif domes of Tsaranoro in Madagascar on July 24, 2017. –
Photographer Credit:
Francois Leabeau/Red Bull Content Pool

For her, the successful effort was a dream come true. She added: “I’ve wanted to go to Madagascar for the last few years. Finally, I felt ready and with enough time to go and try it.”

Mora Mora literally translates as “slowly, slowly”, an apt description for the two athletes, who first met on the World Cup circuit eight years ago and have become regular climbing partners, tackling it.

Night sky over the Tsaranoro and the Cameleon in Madagascar on July 19, 2017. –
Photographer Credit:
Francois Leabeau/Red Bull Content Pool
Sunrise on the Tsaranoro in Madagascar on July 18 2017. –
Photographer Credit:
Francois Leabeau/Red Bull Content Pool
Sasha DiGiulian stands in front of Mora Mora (5.14b, 8c) on the remote massif domes of Tsaranoro in Madagascar on July 23, 2017. –
Photographer Credit:
Francois Leabeau/Red Bull Content Pool

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